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Build your credit plan

A few easy questions, then your plan: what to pay, and when. About 2 minutes.

Free. No account. Nothing you type leaves your browser. Rules checked .

Step 1 of 4

What's your credit score?

A guess is fine. Your bank or card app often shows it for free.

Your score on the gauge: 640 out of 850, Fair 300 400 500 600 700 800 850 640 Fair
How the plan is builtThe rules, the math and the sources

How the plan is built

The planner turns three choices (the loan, the date and a target score) and the card numbers you enter into dates and dollar amounts. It runs the same plan engine as the ScoreTuner dashboard, entirely in your browser. It doesn't predict a score. FICO and VantageScore don't publish point tables, and anyone quoting an exact gain is guessing.

The rules it follows

Final statement
The last closing date on or before 5 days before your date, so the balance has time to report.
Balance to aim for
9% of that card's limit, on its final statement.
Pay down on each card
Its balance now minus 9% of its limit, never below $0.
Monthly step
Each card's pay-down spread evenly over the statements left before its final one, on top of new charges and interest. The cards that close in a month add up to that month's step.
No new credit from
6 months before your date.
Report checks
120 days out to pull your reports and dispute errors, then 60 and 30 days out to check again.

Most card issuers report the balance from your statement closing date, which comes weeks before the due date. That's why the plan works from closing dates. The 9% target is a planning number, not a published cutoff. FICO says amounts owed are a major part of your score and that using a high share of your limits can lower it.

Worked example

Say you want to apply 12 months from now. Card A has a $1,500 limit and a $1,100 balance. Card B has a $500 limit and a $430 balance.

StepMathResult
Both cards now$1,100 + $430 on $1,500 + $500$1,530 owed on $2,000 (76.5%)
Card A on its final statement9% of $1,500$135 or less
Card B on its final statement9% of $500$45 or less
Pay down on each card$1,100 minus $135; $430 minus $45$965 and $385, so $1,350 in all
Monthly step$1,350 over about 12 statementsAbout $113 a month, on top of new charges and interest

Card A at $135 plus Card B at $45 is $180, which is 9% of the $2,000 in limits.

The checkpoints

At 120 days out, pull all three reports free at AnnualCreditReport.com and dispute anything inaccurate. Under the Fair Credit Reporting Act, a bureau generally has 30 days to finish a dispute, or 45 days when you dispute after a free AnnualCreditReport.com report, plus a few days to send the results. Starting at 120 days leaves time for an answer. At 60 days out, pull the reports again and make sure any fixes went through. At 30 days out, confirm your final statement dates against your latest statements and keep every card open, since closing one lowers your total limit.

For a home loan, lenders usually pull all three bureaus and use the middle score. If you apply with someone else, FHA, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac use the lower of your two middle scores, and VA and USDA lenders set their own method. Lenders can add their own minimums, so ask yours what they need.

Old items on your reports

Most negative items, including late payments, can be reported for 7 years. For a collection or charge-off, the clock starts from the first missed payment that led to it: bureaus usually remove it about 7 years after that date, and the legal limit is 7 years from 180 days after it. Paying the debt doesn't restart the clock. A hard inquiry counts in FICO Scores for 12 months and can stay on your reports for 2 years.

Sources

Questions about this tool

How far ahead should I start getting my credit ready?

As early as you can. A year gives you about 12 statements to bring card balances down, and it lets hard inquiries age past the 12 months FICO counts them. Pull your reports at least 120 days before you apply so a dispute has time to finish, and stop opening new credit about 6 months out.

Does this planner predict my score on my date?

No. FICO and VantageScore don't publish point tables, so no honest tool can tell you where your score will land. The planner lays out the dates and balances that scoring models read, so you know what to do and when.

Why does the plan aim for 9% of each card's limit?

It's a planning target, not a FICO rule. FICO says amounts owed are a major part of your score and that using a high share of your limits can lower it. 9% keeps you well under that and leaves a little room for a charge that posts late.

Why stop opening new credit 6 months before I apply?

A new hard inquiry or a new account can lower scores, and mortgage underwriters often ask you to explain recent inquiries. Six months is a planning buffer, not a lender rule, and it keeps new activity off your file while you get ready.

Where do I find my card's statement closing date?

It's printed on each statement, usually near the top as the closing date or statement date, and it's in your card's app under Statements. Most cards close about 21 to 25 days before the payment due date, and the day stays about the same each month.

Which score do mortgage lenders use?

Most pull all three bureaus and use the middle score. If two people apply together, FHA, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac use the lower of the two middle scores. VA and USDA lenders set their own method. Lenders can also set their own minimums above the program's.

What changes for FHA loans on January 1, 2027?

Under HUD Mortgagee Letter 2026-11, for FHA case numbers assigned on or after January 1, 2027, lenders may submit more than one credit score model (Classic FICO, FICO 10T or VantageScore 4.0) and use the lowest result. The 500 and 580 thresholds stay the same.

Is anything I type saved or sent anywhere?

It stays in your browser. The planner remembers your entries on this device so you can come back, and nothing you type is sent to us. To keep the plan across devices, save it to a free account.

Guides behind the math

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